St. Maarten Dining

So you're planning a vacation to the Caribbean island of St. Maarten? Although I've never counted it's said that you could eat here in a different restaurant every day for a whole year long. To help you narrow the choices down, this blog features some of my articles on my favourite food places that have been published in local media. If there's anything you want to know more about dining in St. Maarten, feel free to email me!

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Location: St. Maarten, Curaçao

Thursday, April 20, 2006

Top Carrot: Wholesome & Juicy

When it comes to eating healthy on vacation, many of us tend to make poor choices and relax our restraint, but there are ways to keep watch over what you put in your mouths, and with some help from Top Carrot Restaurant and Juice Bar (Plaza del Lago, Simpson Bay Yacht Club) your job should be made a little bit easier. It’s one of the few places on St. Maarten dedicated to health food mostly made with locally grown vegetables and fruits.

The Bulgarian yoghurt for breakfast is homemade and so are the freshly squeezed juices. You can choose from 11 fruits and vegetables and even make your own combination. But at Top Carrot they’ve already put together some interesting choices – have an Early Sunrise (pineapple, grapefruit and cranberry) or fuel your body with a Liquid Life (carrot, wheatgrass powder, celery and apple).

The smoothies make up for a more nutritional option – the Rejuvenate made off banana, apple, dates and cashew nuts is rich and tasty and enough to still you hunger. If not, you can always go for one of their wholesome sandwiches or salads. Healthy ingredients and exotic combinations are served on a 7 grain French bread or in a whole wheat pita. Salads run from Classic Caesar to Apple Turkey. Vegetarian will enjoy Gourmet sandwich, the veggie wrap or the Greek Platter (stuffed wine leaves, tzaziki, tomato, black olives and feta cheese). If you like the ingredients on the menu but not the combination, don’t hesitate to make your own mix – if they have it they can customize it anyway you want.

If the food has put you into a healthy state of mind, browse through their bookcase for a pick that shows you how to maintain it nutritionally, physically and mentally. Grab some new age music and incense while you’re at it for complete body wellness. Top Carrot also sells natural beauty products, supplements, organic food products, fresh fruits, exotic jewellery and accessories. They open every day for breakfast and lunch.

Monday, April 17, 2006

Ciao Bella Ice Cream at "Where's Ivan?"


Where’s Ivan? You know that cool guy who used to own the ice cream parlour in Maho Village? Well, after selling the Häagen-Dazs shop and spending some time in a humdrum office, Ivan Crittenden realized he missed the interaction with his friendly clients. So now he’s back with a new spot in Simpson Bay, offering happy customers a different kind of frosted scoops. Don’t be mistaken, it’s not an ice cream shop. It’s a Gelatoria (we’ll explain later) where they also happen to sell delectable pastries, flavourful sandwiches and paninis, and tasty crêpes.

One of the plus sides of being a reporter is the occasional free tasting that comes along, and boy did I get a good licking (and a bite or two) at “Where’s Ivan?” Yes, since his loyal patrons where continuously asking for him, Ivan decided to name the place like that. Although, once people have found his new place, he might want to change it to “Ivan’s Here!” – just a minor suggestion.
Back to the Gelatoria. Where’s Ivan? does not serve ice cream, but gelato ((jeh-laht-o), an Italian-style ice cream. “It’s contains less butter fat than most other ice cream brands and it’s not as rich, but it has a lot more flavour to it,” Ivan said.
To be a bit more precise, Ciao Bella contains 20 per cent air by volume, compared to 60 per cent in most American brands, and contains 12 per cent butterfat versus 16 per cent in typical ice cream. Ciao Bella's gelato, based on a family recipe from Torino, Italy, is primarily hand-made in small batches with high quality ingredients. As a result, the gelato is smoother and creamier in consistence, with a dense texture and an intense flavour.

It’s not just a sales talk; it’s true, as I got to sample it myself. Now tastes may differ, but one bite of this scoop will have you agree and be tempted to taste as many flavours as possible.
At Ivan’s you can indulge in a rotating selection of 24 different kinds and don’t let some of the unusual combination hold you back – the Rhubarb Crème Fraiche might make you frown, but one lick will smooth it out. It’s sweet and creamy and nothing like anything you’ve tasted before.
Of course there are plenty of safer options: the Caramel Heath Bar Crunch is simply yummy, Tahitian Vanilla is much richer than the regular one, the Banana tastes like, well, a banana, and my favourite (and that of every other cocoa buff!) the French Chocolate Valrhona is pure ecstasy!

If you’re going to sabotage your diet, this is the place to do it. Those in denial can order one of the sorbets packed with morsels of fruit and convince themselves they're having a healthy snack. Ciao Bella’s sorbets are a blend of 70 per cent-80 per cent fruit with just a touch of water and sugar to achieve a smooth constancy. They contain neither colouring nor any artificial ingredients and they’re also dairy-free, fat-free and cholesterol-free!
Some are even infused with wines like the Blackberry Cabernet; doesn’t that make a perfect dessert? You can even keep it kosher with the grapefruit, mango and other fruits flavours. Every bite is chock full of fruit. Yum!!!
In case you haven’t noticed, Ciao Bella is a delight for the senses. The ice cream is sold by the scoop and put hand-packed pints to take home and you can come back and find new flavours every time. Other stand-out flavours include Figs in Port, Key Lime with Graham Crackers and Malted Milk Balls. As I’m writing this my tongue’s hanging out of my mouth going “gggggaaaaaahhh!”

But the gelato is not the only thing you’ll go gaga about. Wait till you see and sample the scrumptious looking and tasting dessert made by the in-house French pastry chef. The selection is modest, but what they have to offer is made with lots of attention and eye for detail. Each and every one of those artistic creations is a piece de resistance.
The dessert named after the place consists of soft and creamy chocolate mousse with a surprising heart of caramel and peanuts, all enveloped in a shell of chocolate. It also comes in three layers of chocolate and in an exotic passion fruit mousse. You can also indulge in home baked cinnamon rolls, cakes and several other petite fours that will make you drool.

But that’s not all. Ivan’s not just a place to satisfy your sweet tooth, as you can also get quick lunch offers, including flavourful sandwiches and homemade paninis (topped with beef, chicken, cheese and cream or bacon cheese and pickles or a la Bolognaise amongst others) galettes (ask Ivan!), salads, crêpes and turnovers with a different filling every day.

“Where’s Ivan?” is open every day from 10:00am till 11:00pm. They’re located in Simpson Bay Yacht Club, right on Welfare Road in Cole Bay. Have a look and dig in! Buon Appetito!

Rare: It’s all about the meat

First he called you to “awaken your senses,” now he’s daring you to be “rare.” After presenting Nouveau Caribbean Cuisine at Temptation Restaurant in the Dutch Lowlands, award-wining chef Dino Jagtani has come to the table with a tested, time-honoured, possibly bullet-proof formula. This time, Jagtani has opened a steakhouse.

Rare is the name of Jagtani’s venture, which set up for business about a month ago on Atlantis Casino Courtyard. This is prime steakhouse territory, of course, a region crawling with hungry tourists. But Rare has been designed with a more eclectic crowd in mind. There are no oil paintings of giant steers on the walls, no display cases of prime beef aging grimly by the door. The only overt nod to the genre is the name of the restaurant. Otherwise, we could be anywhere in the polished upper realm of dining St. Maarten.
There’s a long bar in the front of the room which doubles as a waiting area and a smoker’s nook (no smoking at the tables allowed!). The concept is futuristic and retro, offering modern shapes and colours, textures and dimensions. The interior is sleek, but cosy. The smart illumination, together with the table top candles, sets the perfect ambiance.
But what makes a good steakhouse, of course, are lots of good meat, and there’s plenty of that on the menu. Rare is the only restaurant in the Caribbean to offer dry-aged Certified Angus Beef (CAB) Prime brand, and the only place to serve a dry-aged strip steak with a wet-aged filet.
Dry-aging is a time-honoured process that begins with top quality meat. Only a fraction of beef dry-ages well, such as well-marbled Prime graded beef.
The meat is hung in large sterile refrigerators with carefully controlled airflow, humidity and temperature for 21 days. The result is extremely tender beef, with a slightly nutty flavour. The meat’s ability to hold on to moisture with cooking is also improved, making for juicier steaks.

The chef prepares a 20-ounce bone-in rib-eye, filet mignon and “deconstructed Porterhouse” - 10-ounce, wet-aged filet and 16-ounce, dry-aged strip - as well as a bone-in strip steak and dry-aged strip steak. Other menu favourites include seafood, veal chops, and ribs.
No self-respecting steakhouse would be complete without a bulging roster of side dishes, and Rare is no exception. There are 16 of them, including different preparations of potatoes and various vegetables. They are served in separate bowls and you can order as many as you like (at US $6.95 each).
Appetizers include steakhouse classics with a twist and they are copious. If you’re a cheese fan, you’ll love the fried Brie sticks. The outside is crunchy and as soon as you take a bite, the velvety cheese scrumptiously melts away on your tongue.

The smooth lobster bisque, with a hint of vanilla, was surprisingly delicious. Together with the freshly baked onion cheese bread it made a lovely entrée to the Rare experience.
And then it was time for the meat. “Dare to be Rare,” so don’t even ask for a medium or well-done steak. If you still have the nerves to do so, the flavour and texture of your meat will not be guaranteed. I opted for the smaller version of Fillet Mignon, which was absurdly tender and a little charred on the outside, so when you took a bite, the result was pleasurable candy like crunch.
Although I was perfectly happy with my piece of meat, next time I’ll go for a bone-in steak, as they tend to have more flavour, according to the chef.
Dessert was delectable and a genius combination: crème brûlée cheesecake. I heard about this jewel before, so therefore I kept my meat portion small, to save some room for it. This noble creation came on a large see-through plate with warm fudge and raspberry sauce. Very heavy on the stomach, but worth it every bite! Like most of the food at Rare, it’s money in the bank, the gambler’s equivalent of a sure bet.

Rare is open every evening from 6:30 to 10:30pm. For reservations and information call 545-5714

Freedom Fighter’s I-tal Shack

Ital is Vital

Whereas before you would sit under the big tree to savour your ital meal at the Freedom Fighter’s Shack on Bush Road, now you can actually enjoy your meal in a true restaurant. After two months of cutting, hammering and painting, Ras Bushman and his wife Raisa have opened their new Freedom Fighter’s I-tal shack and are ready to serve their clients the great tasting ital food they’re known for.

If you're even a casual listener of reggae music, there's no doubt that you've heard the word "Ital" mentioned at one time or another. Ital has been translated from Jamaican patois slang as "pure," and that's appropriate, especially when taking into account that Ital is usually mentioned in connection with food or cooking.

So what is Ital food? Simply put, Ital food is organic, non-processed food from the earth (that is, vegetarian, by most definitions). "Ital is vital" best summarizes the Rastafarian belief that pure food from the earth is the most physically and spiritually beneficial. An Ital diet is nearly vegan (vegetarian) and avoids alcohol, and other drugs, and milk is also not included.
“It’s very healthy food,” said Raisa, who does all the cooking. “And I only use olive oil for cooking,”
So, no milk, no flesh, no processing... the recipes must be bland, right? Wrong! If you have visited the I-tal Shack on Bush Road, you're probably well aware of how satisfying vegetarian meals can be. Ital dishes often contain a variety of herbs and spices as well as a wide range of exotic fruits and vegetables.
“I use vegetables and some fruits from our garden up the hill,” said Raisa. “I only want to use fresh and natural ingredients, it tastes much better.” That’s one of the reasons why there is no fixed menu. Raisa cooks up whatever is available at the moment and sometimes it’s just not the season for a specific vegetable. She cooks a lot with tofu and whole-wheat grains. Side dishes often include plantain all to be cooked up "inna Ital stylee."
Raisa even prefers to cook outside on a fire than on the gas stove. “I only use the stove if I have to warm up things quickly,” she said. “I prefer everything natural, even the way of cooking.” The meals are also often served in half a bowl made out of a coconut shell. Even the spoon is made from coconut. As far as drinks go, only natural homemade juices are available, including tamarind and soursop. It can’t get more ital than that.

Although eating under the tree had its charms the new colourful I-tal Shack creates an irie atmosphere and there’s plenty of room to bring your whole family as it can hold up to 25 people. It’s always a surprise what Raisa is cooking up, but you can bet it’s something you can sink your teeth in.

Mai's Vietnamese Restaurant

"A serene little oasis and great food"

Situated in a 100-year-old home in the heart of Marigot, is the charming Mai's Vietnamese restaurant, one of the most romantic hide-away. For those who have never heard of it, it's easy to overlook this little jewel, as it's tucked away on the second floor of the house along the busy Rue de Hollande. But the interior uncovers a serene oasis that soothes all your senses as soon as you walk up the stairway.
We were a little bit too early, so when we rang the little copper bell, we were greeted by the chef who ushered us into, what at first glance looked like a private living room, but what was actually an elegantly decorated foyer furnished with lacquered furniture and numerous Asian artefacts.
The dining terrace was set amid lush embellishments of trees and scented flowers decorated in an antique colonial style with a touch of French sophistication. The area was pleasantly filled with a subtle aroma of flowers and incense that was present the minute we walked through the door. The interior alone was a treat for the eyes and the atmosphere alone was worth our spending.
The menu looked very attractive as well. The owner and hostess Mai has managed to give a varied sampling of her native cuisine. What I noticed was that the Vietnamese way of cooking entails much of the zesty lemon flavour along with fresh herbs, specifically lemongrass.
The tangy and flavoursome aroma of the asparagus crab soup I choose as a starter bowled me over at the first slurp. The soup was fresh, vibrant and the perfect combination of sharp flavour and texture and it offered a tingly sensation to the taste buds. The faintly lemongrass-flavoured broth was enriched with still-crisp pieces of asparagus, generous chunks of crabmeat and soft clear rice noodles.
My dining companion opted for the spring rolls. Filled with spicy bits of meat and vegetables, the four crispy rolls were wrapped and lightly fried in rice paper. The rolls were served with lettuce and mint leaves and a delicious sweetened nuoc mam (fish) sauce, which is the Vietnamese alternative to soy sauce. He was so pleased with the rolls he even considered ordering a second round.
But there was a lot more to explore, such as the main course of sliced beef marinated in lemongrass. The beef was served with bean sprouts on a sizzling hot plate and was given a final stirring touch by the waitress at our table. After the ingredients were well blended the beef was spooned over a bowl of warm noodles. The condiments included sliced green onions, crushed peanuts with roasted sesame seeds and, again, the sweetened nuoc mam sauce. According to my companion, the beef was tender and juicy and delightfully combined with herbs.
As I always like to explore new dishes I was interested in the mussels cooked in Huê style, but since I was a novice in Vietnamese food the chef wouldn't recommend it, so I went for the stuffed squid with saffron sauce and decided to leave the mussels for my next visit. The ingredients were fresh, light and in perfect balance on the plate. The subtle saffron sauce enhanced rather than masked the flavours of the dish and the three tender shrimps were a pleasant addition. This first introduction to the Vietnamese cuisine was truly a delight and it represents a field well worth exploring some more.
Other exotic dishes included stir-fried crabmeat with lily flowers and angel hair, red snapper paved with fresh tomatoes and lemongrass, Magret duck with mango sauce, Nem Nuong (barbecue chicken balls), Mi Sao (Vietnamese crepes) and fried crisp noodles. One section of the menu was devoted to vegetarian alternatives like coconut curry vegetables and angel hair stir-fry.
In addition to the enticing authentic Vietnamese dishes, I was very content with the presentation. The food was beautifully prepared and each dish was nicely decorated with flowers, a lovely touch that was ubiquitous throughout the evening. Not only did Mai personally sign the check with flowers, but even the paper smelled like flowers! Those little details together with the complimentary orange-flavoured aperitif made the evening memorable.
As a couple we spent US $80, but that includes first and main courses, drinks, coffee and Vietnamese sweets. The flavoursome food and the unique experience made it more than worth it.

Mai's is located on Rue de Hollande in Marigot and is open daily from 6:30pm and is closed on Tuesday.

Veggie D’Lites with Shieka’s Weekly Buffet



Skip the beef and pass the granola. Vegetarian cuisine has hit the mainstream and you don't have to give up meat to enjoy it. It's hip, it's trendy and we swear it tastes good. Vegetarian cuisine isn't around to threaten carnivores, in fact they're missing out on fabulous fare when they take a pass on anything without the words chicken, fish or steak. Today's meatless cuisine goes way beyond salads and tofu, and the vegetarian buffet of Shieka’s Bistro on Thursdays offers great veggie-friendly dishes you can really sink your teeth in. Off to a great start…

If you're a tofu novice like me, a great way to whet your appetite is the vegetarian lasagna with shredded tofu and Soya baked in a light tomato sauce and sprinkled with a soft cheese.
My favourite was the black beans with bok choy and sweet potato cubes, which were pan seared, leaving them crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside. Side dishes consisted of orzo al dente cooked with spinach, sweet red pepper and tangy pesto and richly spiced whole-wheat rice. I only came for a bite to taste, but it was so delicious I ended up eating a whole platter.

“A lot of my customers are surprised when they taste my vegetarian dishes. They never thought it could be that tasteful,” said Betty, the owner of Shieka’s Bistro. “Here on St. Maarten we have a mind set of what accustomed food is. We were brought up on fried chicken, rice and peas and pigtail soup and other dishes rich in fat. It’s hard to change that eating pattern.”
Betty knows what she’s talking about, having been brought up on unhealthy food herself. She used to frown when hearing about vegetarian food. Until one day her poor health condition reached a hazardous level. “I suffered from gallstones and diabetes, which runs in my family. I knew then that I had to change my eating habits if I wanted to get better,” she explained.

Not knowing where to start, she read as many books as she could get on vegetarian food and she experimented with a variety of recipes. “I realised how versatile vegetables are and how tasteful tofu and soya can be. They are so versatile and you can prepare them in so many ways most people would normally not think of. You just have to be creative and experiment a lot,” Betty emphasised. “Like I say to my customers who are interested in cooking vegetarian dishes themselves. `I can always give you my recipe, but you still have to add your own touch to it.’”

Betty said vegetarian food saved her life and not only realising how healthy it is, but also how tasteful it could be, she was determined to pass her experience on to others. “I started out with selling spinach and sun dried tomato patties from the eatery I already owned. People were apprehensive at first, but once they tried it, they were surprised how good it tasted,” she told. “People have to get accustomed to new foods. Slowly but surely I started adding more and I also started seeing people changing their eating habits. It is uplifting to see that.”
Betty loves to educate her customers who are interested in vegetarian food and the importance of eating healthy. She though a buffet would be a more effective way to introduce novices to all the delights meatless food has to offer. “People eat with their eyes. It’s not only about the taste, but also about the presentation. When people can see the dishes on display it’s easier to whet the appetite,” she explained.

The buffet she prepares every Thursday consists of 4 to 5 main dishes and it’s changed every week. “I like to be versatile and introduce people to new kinds of foods. We also have so many different cultures here and each has their own food. We must take advantage of that,” she stressed. “I try to incorporate it in my dishes. It’s like travelling, you can taste different cultures on your own island.”

This week Betty will take you to the North of Africa and the Mediterranean, as lentil loaf, Falafel balls, cold Gazpacho soup and Hummus served in a pita or home made Johnny cake will make up the multicultural buffet. Sweet and sour hotpot and lentil salad will also be on the menu. Don’t hold in, it’s all-you-can-eat! Other dishes you may encounter in the weeks to come are pumpkin fritters, bean loaf, Creole delights and more local treats.

Now that we've tempted your taste buds go ahead and unmask the mystery of a meal made from vegetables. You've always known they were out there, and you might be surprised when you don't even miss the meat. As Betty says: “You cannot be negative about it. Be open and give it a try.”

For US $10 or NAf. 18 you can indulge in Shieka’s vegetarian buffet every Thursday from 11:00am until 3:00pm. Shieka’s Bistro is located in the Cultural Center alley on Backstreet in Philipsburg. For other dishes or more information call 542-0068 or 523-3202.